Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Arzenal, cross culture junction. Rated ○○○


www.arzenal.cz
Valentinska 11
Prague 1

Individual Ratings: 
Atmosphere, esthetics, comfort:**●
La carte:○○○
Serving:*●●
Service:●●●
Food quality:*●●
Carte de vin:●●●


When I ask people about Thai cuisine in Prague, vast majority will recommend Lemon Leaf. Thus I deduce, that not that many people have been to Arzenal yet, otherwise such incomparable recommendations would have long been forgotten. Just few minutes walk from the Rudolfinum is an entrance to what you would probably suspect - and correctly - to be an art gallery, as Arzenal is owned by a famous designer and a great fan of Thai cuisine Borek Sikpek, the art gallery is an overture to the stylish restaurant that hinds behind the many glass statues.

Through a narrow entrance behind the gallery, you will enter into a stunning world combining oriental works with unique design creations of Borek Sipek. Everything from the light works to table decorations and even cutlery and plates are unique design pieces amazingly well combined to create exclusive and somewhat mystical atmosphere. The only reason why I cannot give a three star rating in this category is, that the tables are not initially set up, which significantly reduces the exclusive visage of the restaurant.

The food menu is extensive and elaborate, with sufficient explanations for individual items and photographs of the main specialties in each category. Unfortunately, the paper design and generally limited choice of words in explanations again impair the overall image. Also the desert list seems rather insufficient, given the many exotic sweet plates Thai cuisine offers.
For a little insight into the individual courses, shrimp or prawns are the traditional ingredients of that cuisine as is chili, cilantro, garlic and galagal (Thai ginger). Any kind of deep fried prawns, especially with bamboo shoots is a good choice for an appetizer. I generally judge all Thai restaurants by the preparation of the three most famous Thai courses, that is the Tom Yum Kung (or Tom Kha Kung) shrimp soup with chopped mushrooms and baby tomatoes, extremely spicy and with fresh cilantro (sometimes Kha prepared also with coconut milk is usually milder with the spice and thicker with the taste), the Kaeng Phed Khai (or Kaeng Khiao Whan) red or green Thai curry, with chopped meat (either chicken, beef, pork or assorted) prepared from curry paste with the distinctive color provided either by red chili peppers or by kaphir lime and cilantro root. Garlic and galagal, as reffered to above are also a major part of any curry paste. Either curry is served with rice, which is either dipped into the sauce or eaten separately (perhaps to wash down the burn). And last, the Phad Thai rice noodles with fried tofu, egg, bamboo shoots and meat. At Arzenal, I was well satisfied with all the items named above, but the course I will always come back for is a butterfish vestured in fine egg batter with sweet and hot apple sauce.

With all the superlatives I have used above it is true shame, that the restaurant does not pay nearly enough attention to service, which seems barely literate or coherent and virtually unable to provide any advice whatsoever. When even a simple order becomes a communication problem the rating goes down the drain and I have absolutely no choice but to award zero points in this respect. Also the wine list was absolutely insufficient with no regional specialties and choices limited to a few not particularly impressive wines.

I have spent quite some time thinking about, whether or not to award a star to Arzenal, and finally I have decided that a ○○○ rating would represent it more correctly as it is not only the quality and selection of food and the atmosphere, which is of very high standard, but the overall impression that can be severely damaged by even the most banal flaws that distinguish the ordinary restaurants from the extraordinary. Nevertheless, Arzenal is a very good option if you want to try something new and exotic.

Sunday, October 5, 2008

Barabizna, restaurant & Cafe. Rated: ○○●

Pod Spitalem 363
Prague 5 - Zbraslav
http://www.barabizna.cz/

Individual Ratings: 
Atmosphere, esthetics, comfort:○○○
La carte:○○●
Serving:○●●
Service:○●●
Food quality:*●●
Carte de vin:n/a


Over the bridge, across the street from the majestic Zbraslav chateau is a narrow street, leading to one floor building, that will catch your eye at the first sight. The colorful paintings, and relaxed set up of the restaurant strongly contribute to the experience, that the minute you walk through the garden door, you fell like waling into a taverna somewhere in Latin America. If you are planning a dinner on the weekend, forget about getting a table without a reservation. Regardless of the slightly inconvenient location on the very edge of Prague, Barabizna is still regarded as one of the best latin stake houses.

I will not aspire to place this restaurant among the top ten, as it clearly lacks many of the essentials of a true gourmet restaurant, however I will not be ashamed to bring a serious business partner to dinner to this place. The atmosphere and the cuisine are the most valuable assets of this restaurant, perhaps at the slight expense of the quality and appearance of the serving. However to be completely fair, the home-made intentionally irregular plates and bowls with latino motives, nicely highten the rustical atmosphere, but the choice of low-budget table accessories and cutlery is rather unfortunate.I would feel confident to recommend virtually any beef on the menu, as I have been repeatedly satisfied with the prime Argentinean sirloin, and skilful preparation of the stakes. Traditional south American sauces are house prepared and the quality corresponds to it. From the side dishes I especially enjoyed two massive unpeel fried potatoes, filled with two types of cream sauce. The selection of side dishes is unusually wide for a restaurant of this class and would certainly prove satisfactory also with regard to their quality. Other traditional plates of the south American cuisine are also reasonably good and the burritos should under no circumstances be confused with low quality fast food.

Desert of the house is fried vanilla ice cream, which beats the average selection of generally offered deserts, at least to originality. Personally, I would welcome a broader selection of the many fine sweet plates south American cuisine offers, and the home made tiramisu, seemed somewhat inappropriate, even though it again beats the quality of the same desert as is offered by comparable restaurants.

The selection of true tequilas and mescals is one of the typical features of Barabizna and a nice opportunity to try some more exotic digestif than the ones you are used to.

My overall rating is ○○● with the main drawbacks in the setup and serving of the restaurant. Even though the service is usually friendly, fast and helpful sometimes it crosses the borderline of inappropriate joviality and is not particularly skilled let alone professionally educated. As stated above, the food quality is exceptional even when compared to more known latin restaurant (such as Hacienda) and the atmosphere is relaxed and original.

Prague TOP 50 Restaurants


As the first post of this blog, you will find below a list of Prague TOP 50 restaurants as judged by respected degustators Milan Ballik, Dana Langaskova and Alena Jurionova. Please take this list as an inspiration, but do not feel limited by it. The more places this group can rate, the more usefull if would be for the rest of us and the better picture of Prague gourmet environment we can provide:


1st with 60pts - maximum in each category
- Flambee - http://www.flambee.cz/
- La Degustation Boheme Bourgeoise - http://www.ladegustation.cz/
- Le Terroir - http://www.leterroir.cz/
- Zlata Praha, Hotel InterContinental - http://www.zlatapraharestaurant.cz/
5th
- Ada, Hotel Hoffmeister www.hoffmeister.cz/hotel-dining.php
- Les Moules
7th
- Gourmet Club, Interhotel Palace Praha
8th
- Alchymist Club
- Coda, Hotel Aria
- Sarah Bernhardt, Hotel Paris
- U Lipy
12th
- Ladronka
13th
- U zlate studne
- Zofin
15th
- U Kolowrata
16th, following consecutively
- Letensky Zamecek, Belcredi
- Zahrada v Opere
- Rybi Trh
- Allegro, Hotel Four Seasons (Our 18th restaurant was judged by Michelin and received the first star in the former eastern block on March 2008, tells you a lot about the Czech judges for this list)
- La Veranda
- Savoy Cafe
- Kampa Fish
- Il Primo
- Zvonice
- La Bodeguita del Medio
- David
- Lary Fary
- CzechHouse Grill, Hilton Prague
- Rickshaw, Corinthia Towers Hotel
- Lvi Dvur
- Francouzka restaurace, Obecni dum
- V Zatisi
- Amici miei
- Taj-Mahal
- Pod Kridlem
- Aromi - Enoteca con Cucina
- Suteren
- Esprit, hotel Holiday Inn
- Chorvatsky restaurant Mlyn
- Dum vina u Zavoje
- Golden Gate
- Triton, hotel Adria
- Oliva
- Rasoi
- T.G.I.Fridays
- Hanavsky pavilon
- La Rotonde, Hotel Radisson
- Mailsi Pakistani
- Universal
- Sushibar

The list was composed before Gordon Ramsays' MAZE restaurant at Hilton Prague Old Town was opened, and also Essensia at Mandarin Oriental.

Surprised you don't see Kogo or Kampa Park in the list? Thats because the food is crap, the service is lazy and unprofessional, prices are disproportional to what you receive and thus such restaurants have absolutely no place among the Gourmet Reviews regardles of how fashionable it is to be seen in them.